![]() Remove the two screws closest to the top of the extruder and carefully take off the cover. Turn your Prusa around, so that you can access the back of the extruder.ĥ. We still need access to the groove mount to remove it though. You should now have the Sink, Heatbreak, Heaterblock, and Nozzle exposed. Carefully remove the front face of the extruder. The one alongside the fan arm can be a little awkward to reach. ![]() Remove two M3 x 40mm screws from the front of the extruder body. The lower M3 x 20mm screw also holds the fan shroud in place so be sure to remove this too.Ĥ. The top M3 x 14mm and the lower M3 x 20mm. Next, remove the two screws on the right side of the heatsink fan. Leaving the fan dangling can damage the wires.ģ. Make sure you do not stress the fan wires, they are very fragile. Tuck the fan between the belt and the rod on the X-axis. You should still be able to follow this guide in the same way, although some illustrations may vary from what you have in front of you.Ģ. You may find you have the early MK3 style upright fan on your extruder. ![]() Remove the two M3 x 20mm screws holding the part cooling fan in place. All MK3 Prusa Printers are 24V as standard.Ĭheck out our Blog if you are unsure on whether you need a 12 or 24V Revo Six:ġ. You should also place a cloth or piece of fabric over your heatbed to give it some protection in case you drop something onto it.ĭouble-check your printer before buying 12V or 24V. You should also ensure there is no filament loaded and that the printer is unplugged from the power source. Please move your extruder to roughly the centre of your bed and around 100mm above the build plate before starting this upgrade, this will give you easier access to the extruder. If you have an MK2/2.5 you can still follow this guide but you may want to refer to the Prusa documentation for extruder disassembly as some aspects will vary. Please note, your printer may vary from the one illustrated in this guide, depending on the model and your own upgrade choices. You should read through the whole guide before attempting the upgrade to ensure you understand exactly what is required to complete it successfully. You will also need Revo Six or Revo Six MK3 Edition. This is a complete upgrade guide suitable for an original Prusa MK3, MK3S, and MK3S+. However, I'm not impressed with the current shroud design.Prusa released a new firmware 10/01/23 that has the potential to cause temperature issues with the Revo Six, Please refrain from upgrading for the time being until we can verify stability.įor the time being, firmware 3.11.0 is the last known stable firmware for use with Revo HotEnds.īefore upgrading your Prusa i3 with Revo Six please read the following safety cautions. After this I was able to print another fan shroud, so I may now be back in business. I tried printing another print fan, but of course getting a good print depends on good part cooling, which naturally depends on having that print fan shroud in the right place - catch 22!Īfter closer inspection, I was able to sand down the existing fan shroud so it didn't break the plane of the extruder tip, and so stopped scraping over the part. This eventually caused the part to detach from the print bed and stick to the nozzle, beginning the 'blob of death' downward spiral. However, after this I continued to have part detachment issues that I finally traced down to the print fan shroud dipping below the nozzle and dragging across the print. After several hours of work with paint stripper blower and dental picks, I managed to recover without fatally damaging the thermister and/or hotend heater cable. After several successful PLA prints I did a long (2-3 hours) print while I was away from the house, and when I came home I found the dreaded 'blob of death' stuck to my hotend and extruder assembly, and everything else within 2 meters (well, not quite, but you get the idea). I recently upgraded from MK3 to MK3S with it's new print fan and print fan shroud. MK3S print fan shroud causing 'blob of death'
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